Juki Lu 563 Manual
Can you help with a problem I have with a Juki LU 563? The clutch does not re-engage the main shaft after resetting the clutch ( I cannot sew). Juki® Parts Lists: If you have any. LU-563: LU-563. Gauge Manual for 2 and 3-Needle Cylinder Bed Coverstitch Machine: Feb 2005: 25: 0.8 MB: MF-7800.
So I'm brand new to industrial machines and I got myself a Juki LU-562 with an old clutch motor and table for $450CAD. I'm having some doubts at this point if I got a good deal or not but figured it's mine now so I may as well make it as good as I can! It's built like a tank so hoping that means it's going to last me a long time. I also ordered a servo motor to slow it down and make it quieter. My question here is does anyone have any good links on adjusting/servicing an industrial machine and also any good videos or tutorials for getting started with using one of these or even just any general advice for a newbie? Any good websites for getting parts for industrial machines? (It's missing the belt and the needle clamp) Thanks for any advice Edited October 24, 2016 by jshep. Hey, I just purchased a 563 too! I am in process of building a custom table, adding a new servo motor, led lighting, and ton 'o' storage!
My current hurdle is finding a cutout pattern for the table top. I can wing it, but I would hate to demo the table top by accident! For similar builds I have created a mock up using cardboard, then transferred that to a scrape piece of wood, and then finally on to the final wood for cutout.
Measuring and double checking 25 times or more! Lots of prep, trial and error. So an actual pattern would be an incredible time saver!
NO,they do not just interchange!You need to either buy the correct hook saddle(the part that holds the hook in) or it needs to be taken out & machined deeper.The large hook is also taller & won't fit in,you also need to change the take up lever,as it's also longer on the 563. One of the problems with posting the same question in three places is it makes it difficult for those who answer the questions to follow whats going on. Having the answer and the question together in one place also helps the next guy searching for the same question.Sometimes the volunteer experts on here take a few days or a week to get to it. Keep in mind while waiting for a response that around here you get WAY more than you pay for.
I got one more question, did a search and couldn't really find much on this. I have a sailrite bias binder attachment for my old machine. It unfortunately doesn't fit on the Juki. So now I'm looking at finding a replacement to use on the new machine. I found the two options below.
Looks like the top one comes with a different style of foot? Is there a reason why I should get this one? Will it make working with bias tape much easier than just getting a right angle attachment to use with my regular foot? The first Ebay item referenced above is a complete kit with tape folder, throat plate/feed dog, presser feet (Ebay listings tend to vanish over time - it's best to upload a screen shot here to keep the topic relevant for years to come) The additional special binding throat plate has a built-in step to compensate for different thickness of material vs. Material+tape and allows positioning the tape folder a little lower to center the folded tape better with the material being sewn. The special 'stubby' inner binding presser foot and left-toed outer foot allow for the tape folder to be positioned very close to the presser feet without touching and the feet match the throat plate to improve holding and feeding the material. You'll be able to do simple binding operations with just the tape folder and regular/standard throat plate and presser feet.
It all depends on the materials and thicknesses you're trying to work with. If the simple folder-only solution is not satisfactory, try the complete matching set of binding parts. Edited November 20, 2016 by Uwe.
Just purchased a used Juki LU 563 from a local upholstery supply highly recommended to me good friend who does upholstery (no, there were no kick backs). Completely tuned up. Head, table, 110 motor, all included. 90 day warranty. Plus the standard table light installed. All that, with something like twenty needles, two cones of their recommended thread, four extra bobbins, two hours of time with the technician using the machine (who is willing to do house calls, for a pretty penny I'm sure) for $850. Not to mention the benefit of having a company close by to form that relationship with They are sales men in the end, but they know repeat business keeps them afloat, which makes for a pleasant experience.
As the manual states it is 'a single needle, unison feed, lock stich industrial sewing machine with a reverse feed mechanism, producing speed of up to 3,00 s.p. (depending on material). Equipped with a horizontal axis rotary hook which is drive by a timing belt. Lifting range of the presser foot is (19/32)' Anyways, here are the questions I should have asked you all before I made the purchase: 1) Anyone have any experience with this machine; have any tips? 2) People knowledgeable on the subject, how does the deal I got look? 3) It's clear it can handle the heavy stuff, and I have a smaller machine with zig zag capabilities, but how will this machine handle thinner, slippery fabric e.g.
I've yet to run any through, but I've heard the pull is powerful enough to occasionally leave impressions in the fabric. I'll be using it for my backpacks, sleeping bags, and potentially tarps. I'm sure there are plenty of specs I'm leaving out, so let me know. Any wisdom you can impart will be greatly appreciated. Love this site!
Anyways, here are the questions I should have asked you all before I made the purchase: 1) Anyone have any experience with this machine; have any tips? I have used this machine. Depending on the motor it will last you the rest of your life with little maintenance. Put a dot of machine oil on the hook in addition to the other oil points. 2) People knowledgeable on the subject, how does the deal I got look? Deal seems good, a good walking foot can be hard to come.
3) It's clear it can handle the heavy stuff, and I have a smaller machine with zig zag capabilities, but how will this machine handle thinner, slippery fabric e.g. Use this machine only for heavy applications or ribboning (get a folder, it is REALLY helpful for ribboning). It works poorly on everthing light (in my experience). Use your home machine for the lightweight seams and other applications- otherwise it is like bringing a cannon to a gunfight. 'Use your home machine for the lightweight seams and other applications- otherwise it is like bringing a cannon to a gunfight.' I agree with the rest of what John said too. Did you explain to the shop what you wanted to use it for?
The price sounds good. It's really up to your local market though. In some places you'd pay half, in others 50% more for the same machine. I have a newer but very similar design compound-feed Juki as yours.
I got it for a side business of making custom tactical gear with heavy 1000-denier fabrics and webbing. A compound-feed machine is great for upholstery and leather work, but not at all suited for sil-nylon and the like. The large feed dog slot will likely eat up lighter fabrics. I haven't seen the type 135X17 needles smaller than a size 12/80 anyway. This machine will be great for backpacks made of packcloth or heavier fabrics. XPAC is a joy to work with on a walking foot machine. You can find plenty of plain tape binders like John mentioned for $20 or so on eBay and elsewhere.
They take some fiddling and practice but are worth it if you bind a lot. If you've got the extra time then try your hand at some upholstery projects! Ladies love custom accent pillows and they're easy to make(a good way to pay down/recoup the machine!). Fortunately we had the same idea!
We've already lined up a few upholstery side jobs that will come close to recouping the cost of the machine (my relationship with the upholstery shop that recommended the supplier has helped with this). I should have mentioned the fact that we had upholstery jobs in mind when purchasing the machine. Add that to friends and a family of sewers/upholsterers/cutters/'transitional' ultralighters around me, the machine will be getting plenty of use with the heavier materials.
Again, (I keep using the word transitional) transitional backpacks are what I'm intending on moving forward with. The requests I'm getting are not for sub 1 lb. Packs, but packs that aid in the difficult to manage balance between going lighter/farther/faster and remaining comfortable. I did sit down with the technician and run through many combinations. Obviously it had no problem with multiple layers of foam, xpac, and webbing all at once, whatever you could shove under there. Oh man, nothing like a good power tool. The thinnest material we tested was the ripstop nylon from JoannFabrics I had been trying to just get rid of.
With minor adjustment, and minor tension on the material, the machine was not tooo over powering, but not ideal in any respect. Understandably, this fabric is no silnylon, but I had to ask.
Juki Lu 563 Manual
So I'll stay away from the thin stuff with this baby. Nausieda I will certainly get an opinion over on Ray Jardine's site. 'But I've never bought the machine that would cause me to use it every single day to justify the cost.' Perhaps I am misunderstanding you, and you're experience is your own, but I'd say that's a bit of an exaggeration. Personally owning two welders and a grizzly cabinet saw each well over the 1K range, by no means did it take everyday use to recoup those costs, not even close. What type of woodworking do you do? Just curious.
I was a scenic carpenter/welder for years, and now do mount-work for museums, galleries, primarily the Smithsonian galleries in DC, seismic isolators, the whole she-bang. If you're at all interested, here is some of my most recent work (a current exhibit with my work):. They will be touring the country, stopping in San Diego, so they had to be built earthquake proof. Haharight; the mount-making industry does its best, but mother nature knows no bounds.
(Pretty proud of the work in case you couldn't tell haha). Anyways, All of that has surprisingly made the transition into sewing easier. This is a concept that I have tried to explain to many people with a befuddled look on their face. So much of the two disciplines (welding/sewing) consists of more preparation time than working time (80/20 usually I find). All of the work is performed at a very defined fine point of the machines. Depending on the materials you are joining/the materials you are using to join those materials (thread/filler metals), the machines have to be adjusted, often finely. But on a most basic level, both machines put raw material together in a way that finds the balance between structural integrity and aesthetics.
Maybe that should have been a new thread I will say that treating myself to this sewing machine has put some pressure on me to make the best of it. This place also keeps multiple densities and thicknesses of closed cell foam/every webbing you could imagine in stock. So what have I learned: 1) This machine, with proper care will last. 2) Stay away from silnylon, stick with the heavier stuff 3) I can handle the price I've paid 4) No question, pickup a proper tape binder 5) Ladies love upholstery projects 5) Personal note: Stay on topic! Thank you all for your input. I'll be sure to post photos of what I produce. My friend George bought an entire sawmill and so it became the game.
I used his shop while it still existed to build Walnut cabinets from the rough lumber on down.6 months of shop time. I have extensive Landscaping experience and have noticed how the tractor operator, the track-hoe operator, the Spider-hoe operator are pretty much 24-7. In your case you are already way up there so no big deal. But local pitfalls can still snag. I was doing a project last year bonding copper sheet to 50's slab doors with very tricky 3m adhesives and a bag veneering set-up. A month after I was out the door the shop got shut down because the landlord got behind hence a big mess. Jardine is interesting.
The Quiet Life. But in many ways he lit the candle. I'm going to look at your stuff! David, that's a great deal, especially considering a new one is more than 3 times that. You should be able to make a living with that machine.
Juki Lu 562 Manual Free
I have had quite a few of the 563s over the years and still have several. For sewing lighter fabrics you can easily convert the foot setup and create a needle feed machine out of it. What you do is remove the front foot and get a needle feed foot for the rear. When the front foot does not come down, the rear foot does not lift, so the feed-dog just pushes on the remaining needle-feed rear foot. Ask your technician about it. It's very simple to do and the foot is about $40.00. It might sew sil even better but we have lighter machines for that stuff.