1. Free Champion Air Compressor Manual

So with my trusty old Craftsman 15 gallon oil-less compressor that I bought when I was 17 acting weird recently, it's time to upgrade compressors. Frankly, it's long overdue any way. About a year ago, my father in-law gave me this, which he took in trade for a lot of terracotta roofing tiles. He had no idea if it worked or not. When we were visiting he told me to take it or it was going in the scrap pile. Honestly, I had no idea about it either other than it was free. So there it is.

Operation/maintenance manual & parts list. Two stage/two cylinder air compressors & units featuring the r10 & r15 pumps this manual contains important safety information and should always be available to those personnel operating this unit.

Champion HR1-3 with a 30 gallon tank, R10 pump, and 1.5 hp Baldor single phase motor currently wired for 110v. It was mounted on the back of a truck in it's previous use and had a busted-ass magnetic starter on it. Every gauge on it was smashed. It has a dryer of sorts on the ports, as well as a regulator and and line oiler. I haven't fired it up, largely because the electric supply in my garage wouldn't take the draw (I had a small Federal Pacific sub-panel fed off a 15A single pole breaker in the main FPE panel). But I've recently upgraded all my electric so it's game on. The first thing I noticed when I removed the motor cover was that it was wired incorrectly.

I don't know if it was running that way or not. If it was I'm sure it wasn't running well.

I wired a test plug to it just to see if it'll run and gave it hell. Sure enough, runs nice! So I drained the oil and figured I'd hit it with 2 quarts of Royal Purple compressor oil and wire in a new pressure switch. This one is pretty decrepit. But the oil that came out looks to be in great condition. The plan for now is to change the oil, install some new gauges, install a new pressure switch, and wire it for 220v. But since I can't leave well enough alone.

I'm looking to modify this and could use some advice. Being a home hobbyist into auto restoration, I'm looking for something that would power a straight-line sander, DA, die grinder and small blast cabinet (one at a time). This Champion (as per the specs in the manual, will only displace 10.5 cfm in its current configuration. But that's only spinning this pump 570 RPM. The manual says I crank this puppy a max 1050 RPM. Here's the manual, specs are on page 7. So my question is: What if I stuck a 3hp 3450 motor on this and used a 3.95' pulley, which would yield a pump speed of 825 RPM.

I would regulate pressure to 125 psi (I don't need more pressure than that). I would also plumb in an auxiliary 60 gallon tank. By my calculations that would yield around 15.9 displaced CFM.

Would this be acceptable? Would it damage the pump? I know it will generate more heat and be less efficient, but all the box store compressors seem to get CFM by revving the piss out of smaller pumps. I could do the same to this, still stay 225 RPM below pump redline, and probably have better longevity than a throw-away pump from Husky or HF.

Sorry about the novel. I'll keep posting pics as progress rolls along.

825 is only 65 RPM faster than the max factory setup (760), which is less than a 10% increase. The factory uses a 2 hp motor at that RPM, so the 3 hp motor would be OK. At the higher RPM, the factory down-rates the pressure to 125, which you are also going to do. I agree the quality of a Champ is superior to a box store unit. Looking at the exploded diagram, the R10 and big bro R15 use different cranks. R15s are used on big tanks. So you might run into something there, overworking the thing to get the volume for your aux tank.

FWIW the R10 and R15 use the same pistons, and have the same cylinder/head. Whatever you decide to do, that's a nice free compressor. You suck.:rocker. That's a sweet set-up. I don't understand why there is a magnetic starter; a regular pressure switch is all that you need for a motor less than 15A @ 230V. Even if you go with a 3HP, it will be pushed hard to provide flow for DA sander.

The 15.9 CFM displaced is probably on the order of approx. 12 CFM at 90psi. Those sanders require 15 CFM+. I think even a 5HP would run continuously.

Me: I would fix the wiring and put it to work. Maybe use the Champion as your main and your noisemaker Craftsman combined when you need more flow? That's a sweet set-up.

I don't understand why there is a magnetic starter; a regular pressure switch is all that you need for a motor less than 15A @ 230V. Even if you go with a 3HP, it will be pushed hard to provide flow for DA sander.

The 15.9 CFM displaced is probably on the order of approx. 12 CFM at 90psi. Those sanders require 15 CFM+. I think even a 5HP would run continuously. Me: I would fix the wiring and put it to work.

Maybe use the Champion as your main and your noisemaker Craftsman combined when you need more flow? A mag starter is always the RIGHT Way to run a motor that you care about. You don't get any overload protection from a pressure switch. When those ford pinto points weld closed there is nothing protecting the motor.

I completely forgot about overload protection. I thought lower rated HP motors had a built-in overload protector.

I have a 0.75Hp Baldor on my band saw that does have it. Some do and some don't.

Most crappy motors have built in 'thermal protection' hence a little red button on the back. 99% of true industrial motors do not all the way down to 3/4hp. I worked on one the other day as a matter of fact. Duplex oil less champion unit. Two 3/4hp baldor industrial motors driving the pumps. Control panel fitted with two mags and overloads. Key here is the overload is based on amp draw so appropriately adjusted/sized overloads will prevent the motor from burning a winding or in many cases Evan damaging insulation.

Problem is when people figure out that all they have to do is press the red button and it will run for a while again. Toasted motor. I would just clean it up and service it.

If it does not meet your expectations for air delivery, then sell it rather than Frankenstein it. By the time you change motor, pulley, belts, mag starter wiring etc. You could have sold it and found yourself a better performing true 5hp unmolested unit that’s all factory original putting out more CFM. Sounds like you need more compressor anyway for what you want to do even with all the changes.

Good Luck Edit: By the way, that is an awesome freebie, so YOU SUCK! A mag starter is always the RIGHT Way to run a motor that you care about. You don't get any overload protection from a pressure switch. When those ford pinto points weld closed there is nothing protecting the motor. Another thing to consider is that the champion pump you have is probably rated for a 100% duty cycle and if the motor is as well I would not hesitate to plumb in an extra receiver or two. You can make up for a lot with large storage. Especially seeing as your pump is a two stage.

175psi x 160gal+ - = more air than you are likely going to need. I don't know how it is where you live but around here pressure vessels are a dime a dozen and cheap to free. Thanks for all the replies! Yeah, this was a pretty nice freebie, not gonna lie. I think if I could squeeze a few more CFM out of this bitch, it might work out OK. I agree, I'm gonna be running it pretty hard when I'm using high demand tools.

But to be totally honest, it's not going to be very often. I'm just a paper-pusher that likes to mess around with cars on weekends in my home garage. This is not going to be any kind of industrial-type use. It may go a month or more without being turned on, especially if work is blowing up and I'm not in the garage. The duty cycle is a major reason I considered hopping this one up.

This pump is rated for 100% duty cycle. A 3 HP motor is more power than the manual calls for for the RPM range I'm shooting for, and the WEG motor I'm thinking about using is rated for continuous duty as well. I have ample power to run it. I figured with 90 gallons of air reserve, it would allow some flexibility on high demand jobs, even if the thing ran continuously.

I can't justify the expense of 1500-2500 for a baller compressor, especially since if I don't buy my girl an engagement ring soon she's going to suffocate me in my sleep. I was looking at the Husky but this has only a 50% duty cycle. Thanks for all the replies! Yeah, this was a pretty nice freebie, not gonna lie. I think if I could squeeze a few more CFM out of this bitch, it might work out OK. I agree, I'm gonna be running it pretty hard when I'm using high demand tools.

But to be totally honest, it's not going to be very often. I'm just a paper-pusher that likes to mess around with cars on weekends in my home garage. This is not going to be any kind of industrial-type use. It may go a month or more without being turned on, especially if work is blowing up and I'm not in the garage. The duty cycle is a major reason I considered hopping this one up. This pump is rated for 100% duty cycle.

A 3 HP motor is more power than the manual calls for for the RPM range I'm shooting for, and the WEG motor I'm thinking about using is rated for continuous duty as well. I have ample power to run it. I figured with 90 gallons of air reserve, it would allow some flexibility on high demand jobs, even if the thing ran continuously. I can't justify the expense of 1500-2500 for a baller compressor, especially since if I don't buy my girl an engagement ring soon she's going to suffocate me in my sleep. I was looking at the Husky but this has only a 50% duty cycle.

Not a tough call at all. Run what you have it is twice the pump or more than the Home Depot POS.

That being said try some extra capacity before you invest In a new motor/starter/wiring etc. You might be very surprised what it will do for you. I ran off of a 120gal tank for a long time using a gas driven compressor to fill it once in a while. I tore a engine transmission, and front clip off of a Chevy truck without needing to start the compressor up. I would agree that volume can help overcome a lot of things. What's been said above comes from smarter guys than I, but having worked with friends who have similar setups the difference when just adding an extra tank is a big deal (if you have that kind of space).

It sure won't overcome everything, but for what you do I'd think it would get you. I was just having this same conversation with some friends last night, one of whom found an 80 gallon tank in the dumpster outside of a tank place. He hooked it up for extra capacity in his shop and never looked back (he found it a couple decades ago!). OK, so I really got to work on this thing last night. First I had to run a dedicated 220v line, which I did to a 30A disconnect box near where this thing will find its home. I figured I should give it some good oil if I'm possibly going to crank the RPMs on this thing.

I ordered this Royal Purple synthetic compressor oil from Jeg's. I rewired the motor for 220v, which was unfortunately somehow above the previous owner's ability. I have a new pressure switch I'll be using.

Nothing spectacular, a $20 Home Depot part. I tried to be a baller and roll with this swanky brass T fitting, but this cheap ass Husky brand fitting cracked when I threaded in the pressure relief valve.

I barely tightened it! I'll be replacing that with an ugly but durable steel pipe fitting. Here she is all put together and ready to test out.

I'll try to post up some video. Here is a video of it running.

Please ignore the temporary wiring. This was just to run it and see if the thing actually makes air. No sense in going through all the trouble of finalizing wiring only to find out that the pump only builds 40 psi or locks up after two minutes. Remember, this thing was destined for the scrap yard so I didn't want to go too crazy until I know it's all good.

Apparently it is! The good: It runs nice, quiet, and surprisingly smooth. It built up pressure to 155 psi despite the one cracked T fitting a blown out gasket in the line oiler. I think I will likely remove the line oiler since I don't want to contaminate my hoses with oil and I religiously oil my tools directly immediately prior to use. At 155 psi, the pressure switch cut off power as intended. The bad: It's slow. I knew this 1.5 hp motor and pulley configuration was on the low end of this pump's rating, but I was hoping it would have some more juice that this.

When I seal it up a little better with the new T fitting and eliminate the line oiler, I'll time it from empty to full. If I plumbed a 60 gallon tank onto this compressor in its current configuration, it would pump all day before it fills that much capacity.

I think a new motor and pulley are in order to crank this thing up in speed.

Welcome to the The Garage Journal Board forums. You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features.

By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please,! If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact. So with my trusty old Craftsman 15 gallon oil-less compressor that I bought when I was 17 acting weird recently, it's time to upgrade compressors. Frankly, it's long overdue any way. About a year ago, my father in-law gave me this, which he took in trade for a lot of terracotta roofing tiles.

He had no idea if it worked or not. When we were visiting he told me to take it or it was going in the scrap pile. Honestly, I had no idea about it either other than it was free. So there it is. Champion HR1-3 with a 30 gallon tank, R10 pump, and 1.5 hp Baldor single phase motor currently wired for 110v.

It was mounted on the back of a truck in it's previous use and had a busted-ass magnetic starter on it. Every gauge on it was smashed. It has a dryer of sorts on the ports, as well as a regulator and and line oiler. I haven't fired it up, largely because the electric supply in my garage wouldn't take the draw (I had a small Federal Pacific sub-panel fed off a 15A single pole breaker in the main FPE panel).

But I've recently upgraded all my electric so it's game on. The first thing I noticed when I removed the motor cover was that it was wired incorrectly. I don't know if it was running that way or not.

Free Champion Air Compressor Manual

If it was I'm sure it wasn't running well. I wired a test plug to it just to see if it'll run and gave it hell. Sure enough, runs nice! So I drained the oil and figured I'd hit it with 2 quarts of Royal Purple compressor oil and wire in a new pressure switch. This one is pretty decrepit. But the oil that came out looks to be in great condition. The plan for now is to change the oil, install some new gauges, install a new pressure switch, and wire it for 220v.

But since I can't leave well enough alone. I'm looking to modify this and could use some advice. Being a home hobbyist into auto restoration, I'm looking for something that would power a straight-line sander, DA, die grinder and small blast cabinet (one at a time). This Champion (as per the specs in the manual, will only displace 10.5 cfm in its current configuration. But that's only spinning this pump 570 RPM. The manual says I crank this puppy a max 1050 RPM.

Here's the manual, specs are on page 7. So my question is: What if I stuck a 3hp 3450 motor on this and used a 3.95' pulley, which would yield a pump speed of 825 RPM.

I would regulate pressure to 125 psi (I don't need more pressure than that). I would also plumb in an auxiliary 60 gallon tank. By my calculations that would yield around 15.9 displaced CFM. Would this be acceptable?

Would it damage the pump? I know it will generate more heat and be less efficient, but all the box store compressors seem to get CFM by revving the piss out of smaller pumps. I could do the same to this, still stay 225 RPM below pump redline, and probably have better longevity than a throw-away pump from Husky or HF. Sorry about the novel. I'll keep posting pics as progress rolls along. 825 is only 65 RPM faster than the max factory setup (760), which is less than a 10% increase.

The factory uses a 2 hp motor at that RPM, so the 3 hp motor would be OK. At the higher RPM, the factory down-rates the pressure to 125, which you are also going to do. I agree the quality of a Champ is superior to a box store unit. Looking at the exploded diagram, the R10 and big bro R15 use different cranks. R15s are used on big tanks. So you might run into something there, overworking the thing to get the volume for your aux tank. FWIW the R10 and R15 use the same pistons, and have the same cylinder/head.

Whatever you decide to do, that's a nice free compressor. That's a sweet set-up. I don't understand why there is a magnetic starter; a regular pressure switch is all that you need for a motor less than 15A @ 230V. Even if you go with a 3HP, it will be pushed hard to provide flow for DA sander. The 15.9 CFM displaced is probably on the order of approx. 12 CFM at 90psi. Those sanders require 15 CFM+.

I think even a 5HP would run continuously. Me: I would fix the wiring and put it to work. Maybe use the Champion as your main and your noisemaker Craftsman combined when you need more flow? That's a sweet set-up.

I don't understand why there is a magnetic starter; a regular pressure switch is all that you need for a motor less than 15A @ 230V. Even if you go with a 3HP, it will be pushed hard to provide flow for DA sander. The 15.9 CFM displaced is probably on the order of approx. 12 CFM at 90psi. Those sanders require 15 CFM+. I think even a 5HP would run continuously.

Me: I would fix the wiring and put it to work. Maybe use the Champion as your main and your noisemaker Craftsman combined when you need more flow? A mag starter is always the RIGHT Way to run a motor that you care about. You don't get any overload protection from a pressure switch.

When those ford pinto points weld closed there is nothing protecting the motor. I completely forgot about overload protection. I thought lower rated HP motors had a built-in overload protector. I have a 0.75Hp Baldor on my band saw that does have it. Some do and some don't. Most crappy motors have built in 'thermal protection' hence a little red button on the back. 99% of true industrial motors do not all the way down to 3/4hp.

I worked on one the other day as a matter of fact. Duplex oil less champion unit.

Two 3/4hp baldor industrial motors driving the pumps. Control panel fitted with two mags and overloads. Key here is the overload is based on amp draw so appropriately adjusted/sized overloads will prevent the motor from burning a winding or in many cases Evan damaging insulation.

Problem is when people figure out that all they have to do is press the red button and it will run for a while again. Toasted motor. I would just clean it up and service it. If it does not meet your expectations for air delivery, then sell it rather than Frankenstein it. By the time you change motor, pulley, belts, mag starter wiring etc.

You could have sold it and found yourself a better performing true 5hp unmolested unit that’s all factory original putting out more CFM. Sounds like you need more compressor anyway for what you want to do even with all the changes.

Good Luck Edit: By the way, that is an awesome freebie, so YOU SUCK! Another thing to consider is that the champion pump you have is probably rated for a 100% duty cycle and if the motor is as well I would not hesitate to plumb in an extra receiver or two.

You can make up for a lot with large storage. Especially seeing as your pump is a two stage. 175psi x 160gal+ - = more air than you are likely going to need. I don't know how it is where you live but around here pressure vessels are a dime a dozen and cheap to free. Thanks for all the replies!

Yeah, this was a pretty nice freebie, not gonna lie. I think if I could squeeze a few more CFM out of this bitch, it might work out OK. I agree, I'm gonna be running it pretty hard when I'm using high demand tools. But to be totally honest, it's not going to be very often.

I'm just a paper-pusher that likes to mess around with cars on weekends in my home garage. This is not going to be any kind of industrial-type use. It may go a month or more without being turned on, especially if work is blowing up and I'm not in the garage. The duty cycle is a major reason I considered hopping this one up.

This pump is rated for 100% duty cycle. A 3 HP motor is more power than the manual calls for for the RPM range I'm shooting for, and the WEG motor I'm thinking about using is rated for continuous duty as well.

I have ample power to run it. I figured with 90 gallons of air reserve, it would allow some flexibility on high demand jobs, even if the thing ran continuously. I can't justify the expense of 1500-2500 for a baller compressor, especially since if I don't buy my girl an engagement ring soon she's going to suffocate me in my sleep. I was looking at the Husky but this has only a 50% duty cycle. Thanks for all the replies!

Yeah, this was a pretty nice freebie, not gonna lie. I think if I could squeeze a few more CFM out of this bitch, it might work out OK. I agree, I'm gonna be running it pretty hard when I'm using high demand tools.

But to be totally honest, it's not going to be very often. I'm just a paper-pusher that likes to mess around with cars on weekends in my home garage.

This is not going to be any kind of industrial-type use. It may go a month or more without being turned on, especially if work is blowing up and I'm not in the garage. The duty cycle is a major reason I considered hopping this one up. This pump is rated for 100% duty cycle. A 3 HP motor is more power than the manual calls for for the RPM range I'm shooting for, and the WEG motor I'm thinking about using is rated for continuous duty as well. I have ample power to run it. I figured with 90 gallons of air reserve, it would allow some flexibility on high demand jobs, even if the thing ran continuously.

I can't justify the expense of 1500-2500 for a baller compressor, especially since if I don't buy my girl an engagement ring soon she's going to suffocate me in my sleep. I was looking at the Husky but this has only a 50% duty cycle.

Not a tough call at all. Run what you have it is twice the pump or more than the Home Depot POS. That being said try some extra capacity before you invest In a new motor/starter/wiring etc. You might be very surprised what it will do for you. I ran off of a 120gal tank for a long time using a gas driven compressor to fill it once in a while.

I tore a engine transmission, and front clip off of a Chevy truck without needing to start the compressor up. I would agree that volume can help overcome a lot of things. What's been said above comes from smarter guys than I, but having worked with friends who have similar setups the difference when just adding an extra tank is a big deal (if you have that kind of space). It sure won't overcome everything, but for what you do I'd think it would get you. I was just having this same conversation with some friends last night, one of whom found an 80 gallon tank in the dumpster outside of a tank place. He hooked it up for extra capacity in his shop and never looked back (he found it a couple decades ago!). OK, so I really got to work on this thing last night.

First I had to run a dedicated 220v line, which I did to a 30A disconnect box near where this thing will find its home. I figured I should give it some good oil if I'm possibly going to crank the RPMs on this thing. I ordered this Royal Purple synthetic compressor oil from Jeg's.

I rewired the motor for 220v, which was unfortunately somehow above the previous owner's ability. I have a new pressure switch I'll be using. Nothing spectacular, a $20 Home Depot part. I tried to be a baller and roll with this swanky brass T fitting, but this cheap ass Husky brand fitting cracked when I threaded in the pressure relief valve. I barely tightened it!

I'll be replacing that with an ugly but durable steel pipe fitting. Here she is all put together and ready to test out. I'll try to post up some video.

Here is a video of it running. Please ignore the temporary wiring. This was just to run it and see if the thing actually makes air. No sense in going through all the trouble of finalizing wiring only to find out that the pump only builds 40 psi or locks up after two minutes. Remember, this thing was destined for the scrap yard so I didn't want to go too crazy until I know it's all good. Apparently it is!

The good: It runs nice, quiet, and surprisingly smooth. It built up pressure to 155 psi despite the one cracked T fitting a blown out gasket in the line oiler. I think I will likely remove the line oiler since I don't want to contaminate my hoses with oil and I religiously oil my tools directly immediately prior to use.

At 155 psi, the pressure switch cut off power as intended. The bad: It's slow. I knew this 1.5 hp motor and pulley configuration was on the low end of this pump's rating, but I was hoping it would have some more juice that this. When I seal it up a little better with the new T fitting and eliminate the line oiler, I'll time it from empty to full.

If I plumbed a 60 gallon tank onto this compressor in its current configuration, it would pump all day before it fills that much capacity. I think a new motor and pulley are in order to crank this thing up in speed.