• Spark Plug Gap For Honda 90hp 4-stroke

More quality time on the water. You’re looking at Honda’s most advanced technology – a lightweight powerhouse in a mid-range package.

The BF100, 90 and 75 offer a host of Honda legendary technological advancements and exclusives. Starting with VTEC technology on the BF90. VTEC provides a superior blend of power, torque, and fuel efficiency at any speed. It’s the same Honda exclusive feature used on Honda cars, a premium innovation put to good use on our outboards.

Mercury 115 Hp EFI 4 Stroke Outboard Repair Manual. Mercury Outboard four stroke 90 hp EFI Hard starting. 2016-01-25 13:55:07. Mercury 50hp 4 stroke tiller.

Add in Multi-port Electronic Fuel Injection, BLAST, Lean Burn Control, and a 3 Way Cooling system, and you’ve got a pair of motors that are explosive upon acceleration, economical, efficient, and durable – which means maximum quality time on the water for you and minimum fuss. High Performance Gearcase - gets you going faster Designed to get you going faster, the high performance gearcase reduces drag, greatly reduces hull porpoise and minimizes spray, thus increasing acceleration and top speed. A longer anti-ventilation plate helps trap water flowing to the propeller to minimize porpoising, while a streamlined front and longer bullet reduce drag for enhanced acceleration and fuel efficiency. A front splash plate reduces spray from the hull bottom, maintaining a dry deck above, and a 2.33:1 gear ratio affords the use of 13- to 14-inch diameter propellers for heavier loads. How does VTEC work?

VTEC varies the lift and duration of the intake valves to deliver optimal performance at both low and high rpm, resulting in peak performance at all speeds. VTEC uses two cam lobe profiles to operate the intake valves. The low-lift, short duration cam lobes (shown in red) provide strong torque at low rpm. At higher rpm, a synchronizing piston engages the third rocker arm on a high-lift cam (in blue). All three rocker arms are locked together.

The intake valves are open for a longer period of time to produce more power. This results in a superior combination of power, torque and fuel efficiency. The base is a corrosion-resistant Honda aluminum alloy, followed by a double-sealed treatment. An epoxy primer undercoat is applied.

An acrylic resin metallic coating is baked on. A clear overcoat of acrylic finishes the process. Honda engines have several other features designed to help protect them from the harsh marine environment:. Sacrificial anodes protect the engine from galvanic corrosion. All fasteners and hardware are either stainless steel or a specially treated Dacro material. All wiring connectors are sealed to prevent water intrusion.

Spark Plug Gap For Honda 90hp 4-stroke

Fresh water flush ports on select models allow you to flush the engine with a garden hose. Alternators, by the numbers Honda advertises the real amps that you would see in real use. Some outboard manufacturers only advertise their total alternator output, measured at cool temperatures. This can be somewhat misleading.

Honda measures alternator output at normal operating temperatures. Most other manufacturers measure using a cool alternator, which produces more amps. Honda advertises total amps and “charging amps.” Charging amps are the total amps minus the ignition’s requirements.

For example, say an engine produces 27 amps in total. The ignition uses 5 amps, leaving 22 charging amps available to power accessories Compare for yourself, and you’ll see: apples to apples, Honda motors give you the power you need. How does VTEC work? VTEC varies the lift and duration of the intake valves to deliver optimal performance at both low and high rpm, resulting in peak performance at all speeds. VTEC uses two cam lobe profiles to operate the intake valves. The low-lift, short duration cam lobes (shown in red) provide strong torque at low rpm.

At higher rpm, a synchronizing piston engages the third rocker arm on a high-lift cam (in blue). All three rocker arms are locked together. The intake valves are open for a longer period of time to produce more power. This results in a superior combination of power, torque and fuel efficiency.

The base is a corrosion-resistant Honda aluminum alloy, followed by a double-sealed treatment. An epoxy primer undercoat is applied. An acrylic resin metallic coating is baked on. A clear overcoat of acrylic finishes the process. Honda engines have several other features designed to help protect them from the harsh marine environment:.

Sacrificial anodes protect the engine from galvanic corrosion. All fasteners and hardware are either stainless steel or a specially treated Dacro material. All wiring connectors are sealed to prevent water intrusion.

Fresh water flush ports on select models allow you to flush the engine with a garden hose. Alternators, by the numbers Honda advertises the real amps that you would see in real use. Some outboard manufacturers only advertise their total alternator output, measured at cool temperatures. This can be somewhat misleading. Honda measures alternator output at normal operating temperatures. Most other manufacturers measure using a cool alternator, which produces more amps.

Honda advertises total amps and “charging amps.” Charging amps are the total amps minus the ignition’s requirements. For example, say an engine produces 27 amps in total. The ignition uses 5 amps, leaving 22 charging amps available to power accessories Compare for yourself, and you’ll see: apples to apples, Honda motors give you the power you need. How does VTEC work? Ford tractor model lgt 165 manual. VTEC varies the lift and duration of the intake valves to deliver optimal performance at both low and high rpm, resulting in peak performance at all speeds. VTEC uses two cam lobe profiles to operate the intake valves.

The low-lift, short duration cam lobes (shown in red) provide strong torque at low rpm. At higher rpm, a synchronizing piston engages the third rocker arm on a high-lift cam (in blue). All three rocker arms are locked together.

The intake valves are open for a longer period of time to produce more power. This results in a superior combination of power, torque and fuel efficiency. The base is a corrosion-resistant Honda aluminum alloy, followed by a double-sealed treatment. An epoxy primer undercoat is applied. An acrylic resin metallic coating is baked on. A clear overcoat of acrylic finishes the process. Honda engines have several other features designed to help protect them from the harsh marine environment:.

Sacrificial anodes protect the engine from galvanic corrosion. All fasteners and hardware are either stainless steel or a specially treated Dacro material. All wiring connectors are sealed to prevent water intrusion. Fresh water flush ports on select models allow you to flush the engine with a garden hose. Alternators, by the numbers Honda advertises the real amps that you would see in real use. Some outboard manufacturers only advertise their total alternator output, measured at cool temperatures. This can be somewhat misleading.

Honda measures alternator output at normal operating temperatures. Most other manufacturers measure using a cool alternator, which produces more amps. Honda advertises total amps and “charging amps.” Charging amps are the total amps minus the ignition’s requirements. For example, say an engine produces 27 amps in total.

The ignition uses 5 amps, leaving 22 charging amps available to power accessories Compare for yourself, and you’ll see: apples to apples, Honda motors give you the power you need.

Hi there, new to this forum so any help would be most appreciated as im in a bit of a fix here. Was about about 6 miles out in my boat last night and driving about 3700rpm when the engine (honda 90 1999 model i think) suddenly lost power and changed tone into sounding basically like a bag of crap. It went loud noisey (not clunky just noisey)and i switched it straight off and gathered my thoughts then started it and revved up (to it to about 2500rpm maybe) for about 10-20 secs to try decide what the noise was. I then switched it back off and lifted the cover and checked the dipstick only to find that the oil was pretty frothy/going whitish which made me panic a little as ive just spent more or less all my savings on the boat/engine and know when oil goes like this its not good. Any ideas as to whats wrong and what parts i could potentially need to repair it?

Im capable of fixing minor problems but havent got a clue about boat engines. I know im new here so please me for being a bit ignorant and wading in with some questions but im really in need of some help from people who know about these things.

Any more details needed please ask me and i'll fill you in. No dont take the head off that destroys the evidence.bring each cylinder up to tdc and apply compressed air to each cylinder in turn via a plug adaptor.listen and look where it leaks out and which cylinder.not as good but a compression test may tell you which cylinder is the suspect one. If it was head gasket you would be looking at water getting into the oil return gallery to the sump ( oil returned after lubricating the valve gear ). If you spent money on a repair at a shop that has gone bad you may have a claim for them to fix it. Again, thanks for the replies i can get a compression tester from my local garage if i need one.

Should i give this a shot? I wasnt sure whether to restart it incase it made the problem even worse? My local mechanic said i should use the tester and if all the compression readings are the same its not the cylinder head (or was it the other way round? Lol i was lightly tipsy when he was explaining last night in the pub!) would i be safer just sticking to pistonbrokes advice and trying to track down an airline adaptor and testing for leaks that way? I understand this job really should be repaired by a pro but thats really as last resort for me as ive just blew all my savings on the bloody boat so im hoping to wing it through this on my limited funds and knowledge (and you guys advice!). I do have friends who are motor mechanics but none have much experience in outboard motors apart from the odd carb clean or that kiondof thing.

The head is going to be removed to diagnose the problem so im going to have to buy a gasket kit either way? Click to expand. These motors were also used by one of my favourite reads 'C-Dory' somewhere along the line they were told that it would be cheaper to buy new motors rather than to repair, because they obviously got their usasge out of it. I found this manual - BE WARNED - 1139 PAGES THE BLOOMIN MANUAL IS PASSWORD PROTECTED so you cant print any pages The pages that spell danger are 96 to 106 which shows you the head assembly - it is complicated to say the least once again DO NOT attempt this if you have not been trained sorry for my french - but you are gonna fu3k it up - AND it gonna hurt BAD.